Supplement Detective

By Curtis Alexander, Pharm.D.
America’s Natural Pharmacist

Summary: Glycolic acid lotion is actually an exfolliant which can help shed the outer layer of dead skin cells revealing the newer skin cells underneath and possibly help create a more ‘youthful’ appearance.  Glycolic acid preparations are also used for acne and to reduce scarring.  Glycolic acid lotions that are sold over the counter contain much lower concentrations than what you’ll find in a dermatologists office for safety reasons.

Q: Glycolic acid lotions are touted as natural and they can help women look younger by lessening fine lines and wrinkles.  Do you believe the claims?

A: There are all sorts of glycolic acid products – from lotions to face peels.  The biggest difference in what they can be used for and by whom is based on their final concentration in the bottle.  So, a lotion – as you described – will have different properties than what a lot of manufacturers call face peels.

But, first things first.

Glycolic is the smallest alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) known.  It’s natural source is from sugar cane.  Because it is the smalles AHA it’s ideal for getting into small skin pores to do it’s job.  But, at the end of the day and no matter what concentration the glycolic acid body or face lotion ends up being – it’s still an exfoliant.  An exfoliant’s job is to basically sluff off the very top layer of skin cells – which are the dead cells.  Skin cells have a life cycle, and, after about 30 days the newer skin cells age and migrate towards the top of the skin layer.  As they do they become more acidic.  Women, especially those who’ve reached menopause, can have difficulty shedding this outer layer on their own.  The skin appearance can become blotchy and the skin tougher so you can’t see the new skin below.

An exfoliant basically allows you to show the newer, more youthful skin cells underneath.  Resulting in a younger appearing skin in many cases.

But, exfoliant’s – no matter if they are natural of not – can cause problems too.  Probably the biggest one if over-exfoliating which can lead to redness and irritation.

Glycolic Acid Claims

Now, as far as do I believe the claims of glycolic acid manufacturers … it depends on the claims.  As far as these products being able to penetrate the skin and acting as an exfoliant – YES, I think it’s pretty well established in that regard.  But, as far as being touted as an anti-aging cream and making you look 20 years younger in 20 days, obviously that’s a little beyond the pale.  But, all in all – especially for older women and those who have reached menopause I think a glycolic acid lotion or other similar product is relatively safe and not terribly expensive – so it’s worth a shot.

Keep in mind that the glycolic acid lotions are much different from the ‘peels’ you might have heard about.  The FDA has required that any glycolic acid product that is sold over the counter must stick to two criteria:

1. The final glycolic acid concentration is less than 10%
2. The final pH of the product is greater than 3.5 (the lower the pH, the more acidic something is).

Also something to watch out for is the possible side effect of increased sun sensitivity after using glycolic acid products.  A recent study showed that these products can make you more sensitive to the suns UV rays so be careful when you are outside.  Again, glycolic acid is technically a drug and all drugs can have side effects.